It is nine years ago, in January 2009, when Marc-André Royal decided to open Le St-Urbain at 96 Fleury Ouest.
Since the chef had a lot of experience gathered in top-notch kitchens, among which L’Express and 357C, the instant success was no big surprise. But such a success wouldn’t have been possible without Chantal Gervais’s contribution. Maitre d’, sommelier and co-owner she is the one responsible for an attentive and prompt service that seldom fails, and when that happens is just because the place is packed to the brim.
Two years later, in 2011, Chef Marc-André Royal opened La Bête à Pain, and pretty soon, the bakery located at 114 Fleury Ouest became another neighbourhood staple. That is because La Bête a Pain not only sells good quality bread, but it is also a busy café and brunch spot and offers prepared take-out meals that are similar in quality to what is being served at Le St Urbain.
We arrived late in the evening and the place was almost empty. We were seated at a good window table, but it was right at the wall with the menu blackboard, and that made it tough to read the offerings without getting up.
We started with Albacore tuna tataki, Granny Smith, black garlic - Tataki thon Albacore, Granny Smith, ail noir. It was well presented and tasty.
Beef tartare, truffle mayo, Grana Padano cheese, brioche - Tartare de boeuf, troufle mayo, Grana Padano, pain brioche
Nunavut smoked arctic char, dill and celery veloute , cucumber - Omble fume de Nunavut, veloute aneth and celeri, concomber
Next
Fried Ricotta Gnocchi, chanterelle, celery, black truffle, truffled peaches - Gnocchi de ricotta frite, chanterele, celeri, truffe noire. Very appetizing and an ingenious creative idea.
Followed by Grilled Spanish octopus, grilled green beans, beurre blanc, teriyaki - Pieuvre espagnole poelee, haricots roti, beurre blanc, teriyaki. An assortment very different in flavours than one usually gets with the grilled octopus.
For desert Beignets chauds, caramel chaud au beurre et fleur de sel / Beignets or French Market Donuts and hot salted caramel this was the way to go, delicious and the perfect compliment and conclusion to a perfect meal that was finely executed.
From the wine list which boasts many private imports we chose a Madiran this time Segondine Laurence Brumont Sacre Coeur 2011
It is also worth mentioning that St-Urbain is one of the first Montreal restaurants to enrol in the Ocean Wise program, the program launched by the Vancouver aquarium which helps restaurants choose sustainable fish and seafood.
Usually, not only are patrons leaving Le St Urbain fully satisfied, but they are also getting a freebie to take home: a freshly baked bread from La Bête à Pain, Royal’s famed bakery located a few doors over. Unfortunately, that night we were second to last clients and they had run out of bread.
Even if it is a bit out of my way, Le St Urbain is a restaurant where I know I will always enjoy my return.
Dan Tomescu
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